cuisine art
...coconu
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In Alex Stupak, Dufresne has a kindred spirit. Just
27 years old, Stupak has already maneuvered
several intellectually challenging kitchens,
including Clio in Boston and Chicago’s Alinea
where he explored the concept of “not dessert.”
His creations, defined only by sugar content,
appeared in the sequence of the tasting menu
rather than at the end. In comparing Grant Achatz’
approach to Dufresne’s, Stupak invokes scientific
disciplines: “Alinea’s creativity is in physics and
WD~ 50’s is in chemistry. I’m more of a chemistry
guy.”
Still, chef Stupak rejects the overwrought
term “molecular gastronomy” to describe his
process. All he does, he insists, is manipulate
ingredients. “Pastry, and all cooking, for that
matter, is manipulation,” he states, wanting to
“understand why xanthan gum does what it does,”
or why an egg reacts with certain chemicals.
His experimental approach often mixes exotic
components and unconventional tools, but his
aim is singular: to produce something “beautiful
and delicious on a round, white plate.”
Cover
IFC
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