cuisine art
...cinnamon caramel mousse
and chocolate napoleon
with cherry compote
Trained in cultural anthropology at Princeton,
Zuckerman discourses easily on scientific process. But
trendy “molecular” or post-modern gastronomy is of
scant interest to her. For her, such culinary theatrics
violate the chef’s relationship with her ingredients and
her guests. Instead, on Zuckerman’s plates, pears play
themselves, not some other, more eccentric role. Her
honey-glazed roasted pears may appear with fillips and
flourishes, but the seasonal Seckle is the headliner.
At Chanterelle, desserts typically comprise five or so
related elements. Baked apples may feature brandied
fig ice cream, spiced apple cake, cider caramel sauce
and crème fraîche. Honey and yogurt panna cotta,
a favorite of its creator, sits in a pool of rhubarb
consommé bejeweled with a scatter of diced mango,
passion fruit seeds and seasonal berries. In each
selection, complementary elements echo the dominant
notes—or provide counterpoint—but Zuckerman is
classic in her selections. As befits a pastry chef trained
at Gus Savoy’s Le Chiberta, she keeps her desserts
sweet and fruity; she won’t be serving rutabaga sorbet
or chocolate cake with essence of smoke.
