cuisine art
...carrot-curry turbot
Manzke may not have a film director’s penchant
for command-and-control, but he was completely
on board with the limited choice concept. “It
makes sense in every way you look at it,” he says.
“In the past, when I worked in restaurants that were
more classic—that had three tasting menus and a
big a la carte menu—I just felt that the
customer
was really telling the
chef
what to do, and by doing
that, they were the ones suffering. With so many
choices there’s no way you can do everything
right. There’s a compromise somewhere.” The
small menu also allows him to create food solely
based on what is in season, an element crucial
to his culinary style, and pastry chef (and wife)
Marge Manzke has time to produce a final dish
that is perhaps sweet, but intimately connected
to the rest of the meal.
Of course, the wine follows suit. You can get a
bottle if you want to, but the restaurant’s preferred
method is to let Belgian sommelier Pieter James
Verheyde pair wines with each dish. This way,
Verheyde can show off his latest—he’s known for
finding rare, inexpensive gems from places such
as Slovenia. And those who find choosing the
wine a painfully stressful experience don’t even
have to look at the list.
Cover
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