cuisine art
...soft chocolate,
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It’s sculpture with bling! A chocolate helix
bejeweled with dots of green and a luminous
cabochon of icy lime—culinary art looking
vaguely biological; coda to a meal at WD~ 50,
the epicenter of experimental cuisine in New York
City. Talented chef Alex Stupak redefines the art
of pastry in the new century.
Diners at this hip downtown space agree to be
unsettled. Stupak’s audience doesn’t expect a fruit
tart as postscript to chef-owner Wylie Dufresne’s
progressive approach to modern American
cuisine. They suspend their belief in binaries like
sweet/savory, hot/cold and solid/liquid. What will
“Wagyu flat iron, coffee gnocchi, coconut, cipollini,
sylvetta” look like on the plate?
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IFC
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