cuisine art
...ravioli diszuul crcaosmcoattriino
Cracco passed on artwork, opting instead for
rich cherry boiseries that conceal soundproof
acoustic panels: a seemingly strange
detail, given the fact that the restaurant
is intentionally devoid of music to avoid
distraction. But, in addition to masking
the oohs and ahs, the soundproofing
allows Cracco’s guests to hear (as well as taste)
the consistency and structure of each dish; like his
baked minced potatoes, which mimic the sound
of crackling paper.
Still, those familiar with the chef who has penned
essays such as The Squaring of an Egg and Utopia
of the White Truffle, know for Cracco, reduction
means more than exquisite fare in chic quarters
or parsing of ingredients. Reduction, Cracco-style,
doesn’t require complicated machines or the use
of the odd regions of the Periodic Table. Instead,
staples like eggs and rice are broached with
humility and respect for tradition. “Ingredients are
